Hi;
Rebuilding....and without info about hydaulic pumps and actuators; which one is better for the snowgoose37?
How many degrees the tiller turns? 70?
How many wheel turns are the best?
Which model you have?
many thanks
Snowgoose37 hydraulic steering system data
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Lotusmantra
- Posts: 20
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Re: Snowgoose37 hydraulic steering system data
Further to some steering info posted to "Prout37 Steering", I add this extra information:
Some time ago, on my Prout 37 Elite, the cross link between the rudders broke. It was a clean break where it had been welded together near to the pad-eye that the hydraulic steering ram connects to. This original factory installed pipe was stainless steel, grade unknown, seamed and having an outside diameter of 31.8mm with a wall thickness of 1.8mm. I replaced that linkage with a new un-seamed stainless steel pipe of unknown grade having outside diameter of 33mm and a wall thickness of 4.5mm.
I also changed the swivel joints on the end of the cross link with new (grease-less and having internal carbon fiber bushings) steering tie-rod ends meant for a Toyota Corolla automobile. I had heavy duty LH & RH steering bar end nuts machined and welded to the new pipe plus locking nuts to match the Toyota tie-rod end thread.
To allow installation of that long cross link pipe through the deck opening and into the steering compartment, I had it cut in two and a flanged coupling made with four bolts and installed near the center so I could insert in half lengths and connect together inside.
That original thin walled steering cross link pipe used to flex a lot thus actually creating a longer and shorter length, probably contributing to that breakage and also at anchorage creating noise as the current and swells pushed against the rudders causing a bit of activity amongst all the steering linkage parts. This replacement thicker walled steering pipe doesn't flex and it seems to have dampened that movement and noise. Also, prior to changing that steering bar, I had on several occasions, had to tighten the bolts that hold the tillers to the rudder posts as they had frequently worked themselves loose. Now with this new stiffer steering cross link, I have traveled about 25K miles over 3-1/2 years and have not had to tighten those bolts again.
As for the rudder post bushings, I can feel a small amount of 'play' in the top bushings but the bottom (when out of the water) still feels quite tight. I am not concerned about those top bushings as they've been the same for a long time and won't address that problem unless there becomes an increase in their radial movement.
I think it is very important to check that vital equipment regularly so I've installed 6 inch screw-out deck plates on the inspection hatch covers which simplifies checking the steering system from time to time by just unscrewing those covers, shining a flashlight in and/or reaching in and feeling the system while underway or giving it a bit of a shake while the boat is stationary.
And I must also mention that it would be most prudent to familiarize oneself with that emergency hand tiller, just in case .........
Some time ago, on my Prout 37 Elite, the cross link between the rudders broke. It was a clean break where it had been welded together near to the pad-eye that the hydraulic steering ram connects to. This original factory installed pipe was stainless steel, grade unknown, seamed and having an outside diameter of 31.8mm with a wall thickness of 1.8mm. I replaced that linkage with a new un-seamed stainless steel pipe of unknown grade having outside diameter of 33mm and a wall thickness of 4.5mm.
I also changed the swivel joints on the end of the cross link with new (grease-less and having internal carbon fiber bushings) steering tie-rod ends meant for a Toyota Corolla automobile. I had heavy duty LH & RH steering bar end nuts machined and welded to the new pipe plus locking nuts to match the Toyota tie-rod end thread.
To allow installation of that long cross link pipe through the deck opening and into the steering compartment, I had it cut in two and a flanged coupling made with four bolts and installed near the center so I could insert in half lengths and connect together inside.
That original thin walled steering cross link pipe used to flex a lot thus actually creating a longer and shorter length, probably contributing to that breakage and also at anchorage creating noise as the current and swells pushed against the rudders causing a bit of activity amongst all the steering linkage parts. This replacement thicker walled steering pipe doesn't flex and it seems to have dampened that movement and noise. Also, prior to changing that steering bar, I had on several occasions, had to tighten the bolts that hold the tillers to the rudder posts as they had frequently worked themselves loose. Now with this new stiffer steering cross link, I have traveled about 25K miles over 3-1/2 years and have not had to tighten those bolts again.
As for the rudder post bushings, I can feel a small amount of 'play' in the top bushings but the bottom (when out of the water) still feels quite tight. I am not concerned about those top bushings as they've been the same for a long time and won't address that problem unless there becomes an increase in their radial movement.
I think it is very important to check that vital equipment regularly so I've installed 6 inch screw-out deck plates on the inspection hatch covers which simplifies checking the steering system from time to time by just unscrewing those covers, shining a flashlight in and/or reaching in and feeling the system while underway or giving it a bit of a shake while the boat is stationary.
And I must also mention that it would be most prudent to familiarize oneself with that emergency hand tiller, just in case .........
Re: Snowgoose37 hydraulic steering system data
Hello alarcas,
Here’s the information from my boat (a Prout 37, built 2002):
The hydraulic pump and ram are made by “Sea Star”. I’ve attached a pdf of their manual*. The pump is operated directly by the ship’s wheel and it’s connected by pipes to the ram, which is under the centre of the aft deck. The ram is attached to the centre of a ‘track rod’ which connects the two rudders and is attached to each rudder arm by a ball-joint. The maximum angle of my rudders is 50deg (side to side) but it should probably be about 70deg, as you suggest.
Sea Star have a website (http://www.seastarsolutions.com) and I think they are based in the USA, but they have agents in the UK.
I’m not sure how many turns there are from lock to lock, and I’m not sure it really matters much, but on mine there are about three or four.
There is also an electrical pump supplied by Raymarine, which is connected in to the hydraulic line and also connected to the Raymarine navigation computer. It takes over the steering when you engage the automatic steering system.
I’m happy to send you pics if you need them.
How are you getting on with your rebuilding? Are you in the UK?
All the best, Peter
*Unfortunately I wasn’t able to attach the pdf because it “doesn’t accept files with that extension”. I tried other formats, but it doesn’t seem to accept any files. So I contacted an administrator for clarification, but no response. So I’ve put it in Dropbox, ref:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/296 ... Manual.pdf
Here’s the information from my boat (a Prout 37, built 2002):
The hydraulic pump and ram are made by “Sea Star”. I’ve attached a pdf of their manual*. The pump is operated directly by the ship’s wheel and it’s connected by pipes to the ram, which is under the centre of the aft deck. The ram is attached to the centre of a ‘track rod’ which connects the two rudders and is attached to each rudder arm by a ball-joint. The maximum angle of my rudders is 50deg (side to side) but it should probably be about 70deg, as you suggest.
Sea Star have a website (http://www.seastarsolutions.com) and I think they are based in the USA, but they have agents in the UK.
I’m not sure how many turns there are from lock to lock, and I’m not sure it really matters much, but on mine there are about three or four.
There is also an electrical pump supplied by Raymarine, which is connected in to the hydraulic line and also connected to the Raymarine navigation computer. It takes over the steering when you engage the automatic steering system.
I’m happy to send you pics if you need them.
How are you getting on with your rebuilding? Are you in the UK?
All the best, Peter
*Unfortunately I wasn’t able to attach the pdf because it “doesn’t accept files with that extension”. I tried other formats, but it doesn’t seem to accept any files. So I contacted an administrator for clarification, but no response. So I’ve put it in Dropbox, ref:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/296 ... Manual.pdf
Re: Snowgoose37 hydraulic steering system data
Thanks for info...
I am sad to say the project to rebuild the original "Mother Goose" is stopped. Too many problems with the legal papers and a lot of money in repairs. What a pity!! Boat is fully destroyed by thieves and the rocks and waiting to be "recycle" by the marina authorities here in the Canary islands...
But I would like to continue looking for an Snowgoose 37...lets see...
saludos
I am sad to say the project to rebuild the original "Mother Goose" is stopped. Too many problems with the legal papers and a lot of money in repairs. What a pity!! Boat is fully destroyed by thieves and the rocks and waiting to be "recycle" by the marina authorities here in the Canary islands...
But I would like to continue looking for an Snowgoose 37...lets see...
saludos